Posts
Please click on the images above to make them larger and to read captions.
Note to readers before I dive into this week's posting:
Note to readers before I dive into this week's posting:
Some friends have asked me why I wanted to blog when I can get travel stories published in national and international magazines and newspapers. Part of the reason is the Internet reaches so many people. But the main factor that drove me online was freedom. I often get frustrated with the state of travel writing today. With the exception of The New York Times and a few other publications, most editors want shorter stories -- or even the dreaded "charticle," an article reduced and crammed into a chart. They contend that's what readers want because they are busy and have short attention spans. Then why are blogs so popular?
Rather than intending to be long-winded or self-indulgent -- although that occasionally may happen -- my purpose in writing a blog is to do a better job of communicating to you and, hopefully, write in an intelligent and literate way that readers deserve. No charcticles, in other words.
I also want to assure readers that you will get the straight story on every place and person I write about. I do not seek advertising from any entities before I write about them. When I travel, I do so anonymously so I can get an authentic experience. One of the dirty little secrets of mainstream travel writing is that freelancers often are allowed to accept free trips or special treatment – which usually isn’t disclosed to readers. Newspapers particularly fall into that double standard because their budgets are shrinking. Again, The Times does the right thing here. It prohibits any of its writers from accepting “freebies.” And I think that's the way to go -- anywhere.
See my latest NY Times piece, "Wines, with Notes of M.B.A.," at http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/29/business/29wine.html
All right, enough said about that. All this keyboard exercise is making me hungry. So let’s fly across the Big Pond to the United Kingdom and see what there is to eat. --K.J.
Eating My Way Across...London? Yes, London!
When I first traveled to London almost 20 years ago, I drank in the history of the place. Seeing beloved poets’ graves at Westminster Abbey, the spires of Parliament and Big Ben reflecting in the Thames River and some of the world's greatest art enthralled me. English cuisine did not. I couldn't wait to get to Paris for some decent food.
The most memorable meal came the last night of my visit. I asked a bus driver for a dinner recommendation and he suggested Ye Olde Six Bells, a traditional 16th-century pub and restaurant in Horley only a short walk from my hotel near London Gatwick International Airport. The stroll took me by the lovely St. Bartholomew Church that recalled in my mind Thomas Gray’s lines in “Elegy Written in a Country Church Yard.” It was a Friday night and locals were in a good mood, celebrating the end of the workweek with pints of beer and lots of loud and jovial conversation by a crackling fire.
I recall sampling a hearty lamb and cider stew and some outstanding mashed potatoes and green beans – English comfort food. Don’t miss stopping by the inn the next time you’re in London; check out the new menu and drinks at http://www.vintageinn.co.uk/yeoldesixbellshorley. You’ll get the feel of a genuine country inn. Ironically, many travelers staying nearby don’t know about this historic gem that should be a destination in itself.
Pub food still is a good bet all over London, as are Indian and Chinese fare. But my most recent trip to the capital and to the college town of Cambridge last summer stands out for so many culinary discoveries. London has established itself as one of the world’s top food destinations along with Tokyo, New York and Paris. Even English cuisine has “undergone a real transformation, having managed to shrug off the bad reputation it had in the past,” says longtime restaurateur Michel Roux Jr., who, with his father, in 1967 launched the acclaimed French eatery Le Gavroche (see my Q-and-A with Roux below).
Le Gavroche (http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk) is responsible for a good share of the improvements in London’s culinary scene. The restaurant has turned out some of the city’s finest chefs, including Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing (a protégé of Ramsay) and Rowley Leigh. They, in turn, have gone on to open their own restaurants and create innovative, contemporary British and international cuisine worthy of Michelin stars and emphasizing fresh and local ingredients.
The beauty of taking a culinary journey is that you get to see a lot of the city and outlying areas and a feel for London's neighborhoods and people. Sometimes I find that sightseeing with throngs of tourists can feel very impersonal and passive. But food unites people; it's an active and very personal experience. My best times in London came in restaurants or markets, talking to waiters or vendors or other diners. But don’t begin a culinary journey of London at the table of a posh restaurant. Begin at one of the sources -- the Borough Market near the Thames River. This is where many of the city’s cooks and food-lovers converge on weekends to taste and buy gourmet ingredients from all over Europe -- artisan cheeses, sausages, wine, olives, fish and fowl. A quote by William Shakespeare hangs on a banner above the shoppers and colorful stalls: "How many things by season seasoned are, to their right praise and true perfection!"
Shakespeare could have writing about the perfect globe artichokes piled on a table. They were so beautiful that buyers even posed with them for photographs. It's great fun to ogle the luscious, colorful displays and chat with vendors like Richard Haward, a seventh-generation oysterman who can tell you anything you ever wanted to know about oysters. He brought a load of fresh oysters that were shucked on the spot for customers.
Visitors should plan a trip to the market early in the morning since it can get very crowded in the afternoon. And bring an appetite for the stalls that sell take-away (what the Brits call takeout) food. I sampled a plate of spicy Thai chicken and seafood curry, brimming with fresh mussels, and washed it down with some locally made, fruity sangria wine from a vendor across the aisle. Nearby pubs also sell beer and pints of ale, and restaurants along the Thames River offer al fresco dining with views of Westminster Abbey, Big Ben and St. Paul’s Cathedral.
Alas, I couldn't buy much at the market because I had a small refrigerator at the hotel, so I settled on some truffle-studded pate, a half-bottle of French dessert wine, and a wedge of English sheep's cheese. Outside the market entrance I stopped by a fish market that also sold fish and chips, usually rounds of fried potatoes. Friends keep telling me there are outstanding fish and chips eateries all over London, but I haven't found them. Mine were greasy, heavy and my least favorite meal on this visit. But they were cheap (about $10 US). If you know of a place to recommend, please let me know.
Alas, I couldn't buy much at the market because I had a small refrigerator at the hotel, so I settled on some truffle-studded pate, a half-bottle of French dessert wine, and a wedge of English sheep's cheese. Outside the market entrance I stopped by a fish market that also sold fish and chips, usually rounds of fried potatoes. Friends keep telling me there are outstanding fish and chips eateries all over London, but I haven't found them. Mine were greasy, heavy and my least favorite meal on this visit. But they were cheap (about $10 US). If you know of a place to recommend, please let me know.
Other than sampling street or pub food, be forewarned that dining in London can be quite expensive. The dollar has improved against the British pound since I was there --the current exchange rate 1.63 pounds per dollar -- so Americans can expect to pay at least 1.6 times more than they would back in the States for a meal at an upscale restaurant. On the other hand, excellent Indian and Chinese food still can be found all over the city and much of it is moderately priced. Noor Jahan 2, (http://www.noorjahan2.com) located within a short walk from my hotel at Paddington Station, offered traditional Indian dishes such as tandoori lamb chops, cooked in a clay oven (81 GBP for two, including wine). For a gourmet interpretation of Indian cuisine, I recommend Amaya (http://www.amaya.biz), a suave spot in the high-end Belgravia district. The colorful and contemporary interior complemented the food, which puts a modern spin on traditional Indian dishes. I liked that Amaya specializes in small plates such as tandoori quail, grilled aubergine and king scallops (180 GBP for two with wine and cocktails).
I was tempted to check out Lee Ho Fook, the real Chinese restaurant mentioned in Warren Zevon’s song “Werewolves of London.” But when I saw a werewolf with a Chinese menu in his hand, it turned out to be the dim sum menu from Yauatcha in Soho (sorry, just a little restaurant humor). Don’t expect the usual dim sum carts to roll by. Do expect creative spins on dumplings and soups – the succulent crab soup is superb -- and unexpected ingredients such as venison (68 GBP). On the high end, Kai, in the chic Mayfair district, staged a most memorable dinner of wasabi prawns, softshell crab with mango, braised lamb shank that was so tender it was served in a martini glass, sliced abalone and an unusual but delicious pumpkin ice cream (250 GBP for two with wine).
As for English cuisine, I was glad to see that St. John in Smithfield proves that British fare doesn’t have to be boring. An appetizer of roasted bone marrow – served in the bone – tasted rich and savory, while the main courses of braised rabbit and roast lamb brought the best flavors of the English countryside to the big city (70 GBP for two). And what would a trip to London be without discovering another good pub. While en route to Kew Gardens one Sunday, I hopped off the bus in Richmond, which boasts several excellent pubs with British-humor names like The Old Goat, The Slug & Lettuce, The Eel Pie and the Prince’s Head. The Marlborough sported a nice, sun-dappled beer garden at the back and the Sunday special, tender roasted chicken and good ol’ mashed potatoes, were perfectly prepared.
With its proximity to France just across the Channel, it’s no surprise that London is home to some stellar French restaurants. After much research, I settled on Roux’s venerable Le Gavroche and wasn’t disappointed. The charming eatery dazzled with its creative classic French cuisine, attentive service, romantic ambience and outstanding wine list. The fixed-price menu exceptionnel, the premier chef's tasting menu, began with a cheese soufflé that melted in the mouth. One of the other courses, scallops baked in the shell, stood out for its presentation; it was fun to open the shell and reveal the delicate morsels of shellfish. Traditional fresh dishes of pan-fried duck foie gras, roasted rack of lamb and a selection of French cheeses, all deceptively simple but ideal examples of each flavor, proved why this establishment received two Michelin stars. Dinner for two, with wine, cost 369 GBP.
As a faithful watcher of the TV cooking series Hell's Kitchen (my reality-show secret is out) and admirer of star chef Gordon Ramsay, I had to try one of his London eateries (http://www.gordonramsay.com). Make that two since I was on assignment with Other People’s Money. Besides, trying one on the casual side and one on the high end would give me some context in which to compare them (that was my excuse to my editor, at least). Ramsay’s stylish eatery Maze near Grosvenor Square impressed with its sleek, sophisticated décor and its tapas-style menu of small plates such as foie gras, grilled quail and tender braised ox cheek, which I'd order again and again (185 GBP with wine). Of all the restaurants I tried in London, Maze is one that you simply MUST try the next time you're in the capital.
It took several weeks to land a reservation at Ramsay’s signature restaurant – Restaurant Gordon Ramsay -- on Royal Hospital Road in Chelsea. His restaurants stand out for their elegant, understated interiors and this was no exception. The main dining room was all white and silver and a lot smaller than I expected, but the intimate ambience underscored the feeling of being someplace special. So did attentive service from Jean Philippe, whom watchers of Hell’s Kitchen surely will recognize, and an entourage of servers who made sure that every detail was perfect. The best way to sample Ramsay’s creative repertoire is with the chef’s tasting menu. Rich salmon ravioli and roasted lamb proved why the restaurant won three Michelin stars. The only disappointment was dessert, which was a succession of sweets that muddled my palate (I can't even remember what I ate, not a good thing). This dinner was my most expensive meal in London, but it’s worth it for a splurge or special occasion (dinner for two cost 473 GBP).
On that high note, my weeklong eating adventure ended. I left London enlightened, sated and quite broke, but eager to return – and not just for the sights next time, but also for the food.
Have you been to London and the U.K. recently? Please share your favorite culinary destinations in the comments box.
TIP OF THE WEEK: If you can't afford an expensive dinner at one of London's high-ranked restaurants, consider visiting at lunch. Le Gavroche, among others, offers a much more reasonable lunch menu. You get the same ambience, service and bragging rights for a lot less.
Q. and A. with Michel Roux Jr., One of the World’s Top French Chefs
Le Gavroche has served royals to prime ministers, business tycoons to couples celebrating anniversaries, and just regular people like me looking for a memorable meal in London. It’s also trained chefs such as infant terrible Gordon Ramsay, who’s gone on to open his own restaurants, and others who have transformed London’s dining scene.
After a visit to Le Gavroche, I asked him how London's relationship with food has changed over the years – and what makes Le Gavroche a survivor in the cutthroat world of haute cuisine.
(Photos courtesy of Le Gavroche)
Q. Michel, how has London's overall culinary climate changed in recent years?
A. Things have changed radically since my father and uncle first launched Le Gavroche in 1967. London is now a melting pot of cultures and this is very much reflected in the city's restaurant scene, which is just as much of an eclectic mix. London has established itself as one of the world's dining capitals and in my opinion, Le Gavroche has certainly contributed to this, having turned out some of London's finest chefs; including Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing and Rowley Leigh.
Q. What about British food?
A. Another change is that people are now more interested in food and eating out, they want to know what is in their food, where it has come from and to make it themselves. Classic English food has also undergone a real transformation, having managed to shrug off the bad reputation it had in the past.
Q. What are some of the other trends in the London restaurant scene?
A. Trends go full circle really and we are currently seeing a return to values that were of the utmost importance when my father and uncle first launched Le Gavroche in 1967. We are witnessing a real emphasis on the use of fresh and local ingredients, with chefs thinking more than ever about where their ingredients have come from. Value for money has also become more important across the board, whether it is diners looking for a great deal or chefs trying to source the very best produce at the very best price.
Q. What is Le Gavroche's philosophy when it comes to French food?
Le Gavroche is the epitome of fine-dining and French gastronomy. We hold two-Michelin stars and some of the world's most famous names have dined with us - although we never name names. Our mission at Le Gavroche is a simple one, to provide superb food with exceptional service. Le Gavroche is home to one of the world's greatest wine lists, as well as one of London's best value lunch menus. Ultimately, Le Gavroche is the best in its class because we always maintain the very highest of standards in everything we do.
Q. Why has Le Gavroche survived when so many other restaurants have failed? And how do you compete against the more contemporary restaurants?
A. Le Gavroche has remained so successful over the years because we have always stayed true to our roots, holding onto the core values of French gastronomy, without trying to become something we are not. Our customers love the experience of dining at Le Gavroche and the level of service we provide, is something they say cannot be found anywhere else.
We have managed to maintain these standards throughout, thanks to having the very best of maitre d's heading up our front of house staff -- Silvano Giraldin, who retired in 2008 after 37 years with Le Gavroche, and now Emmanuel Landré, who has been with us for more than 10 years.
Finally, in order to create our dishes, we always strive to the source the very finest of ingredients -- for example, our seafood comes from a local fisherman in Scotland and our onions are bought from one of the famous Breton farmers.
